This is a quick walkthrough of how to print something on the resin printer. You still need a certification class to use the printer at the makerspace.
Here’s a playlist of video tutorials for supporting miniatures: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC4QzbTxrEF-fA1OC_-zE_4f6n1K-w2SS
Preparing your file #
1. Drag your file into your slicer software (I use Chitubox and Lychee)
Note: If using Chitubox, use version 1.8.1, not 1.9.0
2. Open the slicer settings
3. Double check you have the correct printer profile selected (we have an Elegoo Mars 2 at the makerspace)
4. Navigate to the print settings. We will be changing “Exposure Time” and “Bottom Exposure Time”. The other settings can usually be left alone.
Note: If your print fails by sticking to the fep film, you can try increasing the bottom exposure time, or the number of bottom layers.
5. Go to the Elegoo resing setting sheet and find the type of resin you are using. Make sure you are looking at the settings for the Mars 2 printer.
6. Copy the settings to your slicer and close the settings menu.
Note: If your model needs supports and does not have them, now is the time to add them.
Note: When adding supports, angle your model at a 15-45 degree angle, instead of straight up and down
7. Click the slice button
8. Double check your settings are correct in the preview window. The preview window gives a decent estimate of the resin cost, if it is more than a few dollars then we would really appreciate if you considered making a donation.
9. Click save. This will export a .ctb file, which can be used in most resin printers.
Printing your file #
- Turn on the fume extractor and the printer. The fume extractor control is highlighted in the picture below. The printer power switch is on the back of the macine.
2. Plug in your usb stick.
3. Select ‘print’ on the printer screen.
3. Find your file from the list and select it.
4. Click the play button to start the print.
Note: To pause or stop a print, use the pause and stop buttons displayed in the screen. Sometimes, it will try to complete the machine’s current command before stopping, so it may not stop moving instantly. If you absolutely have to, you can use the power switch on the back of the printer to stop it in an emergency.
5. Wait for the print to complete.
6. Prepare to clean the print by:
- Put on nitrile gloves and a respirator.
- Put a paper towel in the spill tray.
- Take the lid off the wash/cure station, and make sure the turntable is removed.
- Take out the cleaning bucket and open it.
- Locate the basket or bed arm for the cleaning station.
7. Put the bed into the wash/cure station. Make sure the print is fully submerged in the alcohol. You may need to adjust the support arm or add more alcohol.
8. Switch the station to wash mode, and enter an appropriate time. Usually two minutes is enough, but for larger or more complicated prints three or four minutes might be necessary. Don’t worry about over-washing.
9. Double-check the wash/cure station is in wash mode (will show a little cycle symbol)
10. Wash your print.
11. Take the bed and place it in the spill tray. Use the pallet knife to remove the print form the bed.
Note: Be careful not to scratch or gouge the bed. If your print isn’t coming loose, try from another side.
12. Remove any supports. Most of these will come off easily, but there are flushcutters you can use.
13. Wash your print again. For larger prints, use the basket in the wash/cure station. For smaller prints, use smaller container, shown below.
14. Allow your print to fully dry.
15. Cure your print in the wash/cure station. For smaller prints, use the extra pedestal. Most prints will cure fully in two or three minutes, but thicker prints may need longer.
Note: Over-curing can cause your print to be brittle. If your print is not fully dry when you cure it, there will be a residue left on it.
NEVER, EVER POUR CONTAMINATED ALCOHOL OR RESIN DOWN THE DRAIN, OR OUTSIDE
If the alcohol wash water looks especially gross, please let a steward know by pinging them on the Discord.